2022 Ford Mustang Mach-E

1) The high voltage junction box failed causing the vehicle to abruptly stall on a public road. The part will be available for inspection through contacting a local dealership. 2) The vehicle completely stalled at night in the middle of a 6 lane intersection. This posed a hazard for myself as well as for on coming and cross traffic. 3) The dealer has confirmed the failure of this component. 4) The vehicle component is being order of replacement at the dealership. The manufacture has also been informed via their corporate customer service line. 4) 5 seconds before the stall, the vehicle user interface displayed the message "please pull over safely". 10 minutes after the stall the Ford My Pass App showed three error messages: “High-Voltage Battery Warning”, “Powertrain Malfunction/Reduced Power” “Charge System Fault”

I had put the vehicle into One Pedal Drive mode for the first time on the morning of Aug 29th. Vehicle operated as it should for first few places I drove to and stopped, but then I approached a red light, removed foot slowly from accelerator and vehicle came to a full stop as it should. Approximately 2-5 seconds later, without warning or even the collision avoidance system activating, my vehicle suddenly accelerated into the rear of the stopped truck in front of me. Fortunately no serious injuries but someone could have been killed. My foot was NOT on the accelerator at the time - it was hovering over it while waiting for the light to change to green. My vehicle was taken to Ford for evaluation, but they claim it has to be repaired before they can diagnose/confirm the issue. I am the original owner with no previous accidents or incidents.

Spot welds have failed on the drivers side door. This is a known issue with multiple ford vehicles, though they have not issued a recall for this specific model.

I just had the High voltage battery junction box replaced after being in shop 16 days. Upon arrival to my house yesterday my car would not charge. upon further investigation once the Hvbj connector is replaced a charge of the car to put a full load on this connector is not performed. Instead ford goes the easy route and uses a test drive and other diagnostic test such as there computer to see if the connector is bad. This software does not detect even close to 100 percent of the time a faulty high voltage battery connector there diagnosis software it is flawed. The only true way to ensure proper replacement of this connector has been done is to charge the car with the charging cable that has come with the car and do thermal imaging on the connector. Because this is not being done you are putting peoples lives at risk by not knowing if the work has been done correctly without this thermal imaging test. Eventually if the high voltage battery junction box is replaced and even the slightest mis crimp of the connector is not done properly without putting a charging load on the connector and testing it with thermal imaging testing they are doing the quick and easy thing which does not detect the problem 100 recent of the time by using the on board diagnosis system as well as driving it. Two recalls and NHSTA investigation on the high speed battery voltage box and it still fails. Because of this test not being done I am positive this is why my car has failed again because it is the only way to be 100 percent sure of a bad high voltage box connector. This will unfortunately due to not being tested by putting a real world load on the vehicle and testing it with thermal imaging thermal runaway of an improper crimping or loose connection on someones car. Recommendation if you are going to replace a connector that has to deal with the battery charging and the only way to be 100 percent sure is to put a load and do thermal imaging to ensure its done properly do it no shortcuts.

See attached document for complaint

The high voltage battery junction box connector has failed. There have been two recalls one software and one to replace this part the high voltage battery junction box with a more robust part to handle thermal loads. As of now there are zero recalls on my car open so they are all done. The first time this component failed was around 24k miles ish it's now 56k miles ish and it has failed again even after two recalls and an investigation around the same exact time. This means one of two things has happened either somehow the recalls by Tim Moran ford where not done properly and somehow the older failed part number was installed in my car or the more likely senario is that fords supposed robust part was just a simple part number change without a robust enough design to handle the thermal load. I would like to think that Tim Moran ford who is independent from for has done there due diligence the first time it was replaced and but the correct part number which leads me to conclude the investigation by the NHSTA that resulted in a part change did not fix the issue at hand and the car is now unsafe to drive as this is the second time it has happened to me on this vehicle. Thank god this time I was not going through a curve and headed off road. Same issue almost exact same failure part gone wrong and same issue to date. I demand not only for myself but the safety of others as a former Quality Assurance Representative of electronics on Hueys and Cobras that this be re investigated immediately. It is to late in the game to have zero recalls on my car open two that have been done and the same part fails a second time this should never happen to anyone if it has already been investigated and supposedly fixed. I do not believe it is fixed and the car is not safe to drive I'm hesitant to even go get it when it's ready next week with this serious safety flaw in the design of this vehicle with it still incurring.

I was pulling into a parking lot at low speed when the car suddenly began accelerating rapidly on its own. Fortunately, when I hit the brakes it stopped without incident. However, if someone had been right in front of me at the time - a pedestrian or car - it could have resulted in a crash. I am certain that I didn't hit the accelerator, nor was it pushed by floor mats or anything like that. It is conceivable that when I was turning, my left palm activated the cruise control in some manner, but that scenario wouldn't explain the acceleration part. And frankly, I don't think that is what happened. I love the vehicle and am not trying to get anything out of it. I am a capable driver with good reflexes and experience. I was able to stop it, but if this were to happen to a new driver or senior driver it could result in a crash. I looked on reddit and many others report exact same issues.

I am unsure, but I think it's the High Voltage Battery Junction Box. A week after buying the car used from Aaron Ford of Poway, I received a Safely Stop now warning, then the car broke down on the middle of the turning lane into my job a medical clinic putting myself, patients, other drivers, and my coworkers all on danger as it is a busy street. The hazard lights would not work, and the car would not go into neutral. The next day, all the dealership did was replace the 12v battery, then I only got 1 mile from the dealership before it broke down again in an even more busier and dangerous highway in the slow lane and crosswalk. The hazard lights would not work, and the car would not go into neutral.

The front driver door metal is cracking and breaking. The door makes a squeaking and cracking sound when I open the door. It is the same problem that the Ford Escape doors had. My car is out of warranty and Ford dealers say it will cost $3,000 to replace the entire door. I think Ford should recall the door because it is clearly a manufacturer defect. Here are photos from other customers that have this problem: [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

my car keeps showing parking break fault. there is a recall for it but it only covers cars built until february 2022 mine was built in april 2022 and it has the same exact damage